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Wm. Eichler
Women’s Wear
1861 – 1865
Creating a Period Correct Impression
The following is information taken from articles by Elizabeth Stewart Clark, Cecilia Petree, various authors in The Citizens’ Companion and “Who Wore What?” by Juanita Leisch (1995).
The first thing you want to do when you begin to think about creating the correct impression is to determine who you want to portray. The wife of a lawyer dresses differently then the wife of a farmer. If you are not sure of exactly who you want to portray then a conservative style is best. Next you should begin your research. Before the first dime is spent, begin to familiarize yourself with the look of the time period. Since a historically accurate wardrobe is an investment, better to spend you money once then to replace items in a year or so. There are many books and web sites on this subject; some will be listed at the end of this article. Veteran Reenactors are also another good source of information. Be mindful of what Sutlers tell you. Many are very well informed but their first job is to be a salesperson. Ask questions all the time especially where you can learn more about reenacting.
The following information is not intended to be all inclusive, but merely guidelines to get you started on your way to an accurate impression.
Things to avoid:
- Zippers, snaps, Velcro
- Patterns shown as Halloween Costumes
- Obviously synthetic fabrics
- Assuming that just because a Sutler is selling it, it is correct for your age and/or impression. The same is true for items on eBay.
- Ball gown purchase before the basics are purchased
- White blouse and contrasting skirt as your first investment.
How to begin:
- Chemise – Very full, white, undergarment. It has an open neckline, cap sleeves and falls between thigh length and knee length. It is worn under the corset and protects the corset from perspiration.
- Corset – Don’t waste your money on a modern day corset found in lingerie catalogs and stores (been there, done that), they will not hold up or give you the look of the 1860’s. You will need to try on a corset before you buy it. There are a few Sutlers that carry excellent corsets and most will have a dressing area at the larger events. Purchase one that provided a 2” gap in the lacing of the back. This item is well worth the investment. You will be amazed at how much support it gives you with your dress and helps carry the weight of all that material.
- Underskirt (petticoat) – You will want a shorter, narrower one to wear under your skirt support (mid-calf, 100”-120”) and one or two fuller ones to wear over your skirt support (140”-180”). These are easy to make as they are straight seams gathered into a narrow waistband.
- Hoops and/or Cage Crinoline – Around a fire it is safer to do without a hoop or cage. Multiple petticoats can give you the same effect as well as corded petticoats. Adjust hoops to be 90”-110” at the bottom. Lowest hoop should be 8”-10” off the ground. I have found that the more hoops, the better and smoother the overall shape. Cage Crinolines are more expensive (nearly $100+ more then hoops) and usually individually made for proper fit. This would be something you could move into later. Hoops are readily found at Sutlers and online at eBay, as well as various Civil War clothing sites on the web.
- Day Dress – Be conservative with your first day dress. Look for a high neck, full bishop sleeves or coat sleeves, armscye (shoulder seam) dropped several inches off the shoulder, fitted or gathered bodice, and front closure. If you are sewing it yourself or having someone sew it for you, be sure to have/make a muslin bodice first and fit it while wearing all your undergarments. Adjust pattern accordingly. There are some period correct patterns at JoAnn’s as well as several sites on the web that provide good, basic patterns. You can find affordable fabrics at JoAnn’s and WalMart or similar store, but be sure to research period correct fabrics first and try to match it to similar designs. There are also several wonderful web sites that have period correct fabric/prints. You will need approximately 8-10 yards so consider this when budgeting. If you are making the dress yourself, your first dress will run around $50 including the pattern. If you are having someone make it you may pay around $100 in labor alone.
- Shoes and Stockings – You will not go wrong investing in a good pair of reproduction leather boots. They will run from approximately $70 - $150. If you have to go with a current day pair, look for a leather ankle boot, with a square toe, very low stacked heal, leather soles, and laces or elastic gussets. The safe choice in stockings is white cotton stockings (although I have found reference to black as well) in a knee length style.
- Outerwear and Headwear – The simplest outerwear is a 60” square of lightweight wool folded into a triangle. You may also want to consider a paletots (coat) or a cape (look for one that is a smooth fit at the neck rather then gathered). A “slat” bonnet is acceptable for a working class impression. Most women wore bonnets but research first before you purchase. There are web sites that carry bonnet forms and patterns. It is critical that you pay attention to the shape of the bonnets during that time period and purchase accordingly. Hats were generally worn by younger women.
- Hair – Basic hairstyles of this time period for women consisted of a center part, hair pulled or rolled to the back and combined in a bun or chignon at the base of the neck. The goal is to make your face look full and round. If you wear bangs for modern day, use gel or hairspray to get them to stay back. If your hair is short, look for hair pieces at Beauty Supply stores that can be pinned into the back of your hair and rolled or braided into a bun. When I started reenacting my hair was very short with bangs. I parted it in the middle and hid the rest under a bonnet.
Resources: The following are some of my favorite. There are many more books and web sites. Spend time searching on Google and you can make your own favorite list.
- Who Wore What? Women’s Wear 1861-1865, by Juanita Leisch
- An Introduction to Civil War Civilians, by Juanita Leisch
- The Citizens’ Companion, The Voice of Civilian Reenacting (bimonthly publication) o If you can get a copy of August 2006, Back to Basics, Women’s Apparel During the Civil War it is an excellent source of information.
Links to other resources:
http://bonnets.com/bonnet.html
http://www.longago.com/index.html
http://shop.originals-by-kay.com/category.sc?categoryId=19
http://www.blockaderunner.com/
http://www.sweetladiesmercantile.com/index.html
http://www.thegracefullady.com/civilwargowns/index.htm
http://www.robertlandhistoricshoes.com/servlet/Page?template=policy